Patchouli Picks

Patchouli is one of the most versatile and shape-shifting materials in all of perfumery. Its natural character is complex: rich and woody, with nuances of dried dark fruits, spicy resins, smoky leather, powdery amber, and rain-kissed earth with a kick of camphor. Pretty good for an unassuming Southeast Asian shrub related to the mint family! Perfumery’s love affair with patchouli began when the French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte first brought cashmere and silks back from Egypt, which were protected from moths by patchouli leaves. Not only were 19th century aristocrats and fancy folk entranced by the aroma of these exotic luxury items, but the balsamic, almost syrupy richness of the fragrance itself signified wealth and status. In short order, bohemians and the demi-monde adopted the style of wearing patchouli-scented shawls, which in turn rebranded patchouli as decadent and rebellious. That one scent came to embody glamour both high and low is part of its timeless allure.

And just when you think you “know” what patchouli smells like, the chemists who devise aroma molecules of the future have a few more tricks up their lab coat sleeves. Manipulated patchouli can reference chocolate or fruit, or a “clean” version of its riper origins, editing out the earth, menthol and leather. “Patchouli heart” is the industry term for these tweaked iterations, which presents a sweeter, softer and more focused scent. Akigalawood is another synthetic fragrance ingredient — a captive molecule derived from the upcycling of waste from patchouli manufacturing. It’s an enhancement of the butcher side of patchouli, zeroing in on the peppery, dark and leather.

With this theme, it’s your chance to put some “grrr” in your purr with patchouli.